Decanter Magazine UK January 2026
REPORT ALEX HUNT MW
It has been said that Chardonnay represents one of the clearest and most precise lenses through which we can view terroir, and this impressive tasting offered ample evidence to support that assertion. The affinity between Australia and Chardonnay is well established, of course, so expectations were high before this tasting. On the other hand, however, there have been times when this particular lens has proved to be ill-focused, with regional differences blurred either by too-obvious winemaking or by the terroir-masking fallacy of early picking.
No so on this occasion, with all three of the judges discovering commendably distinct regional expressions. Beth Pearce MW commented that ‘more than ever, the wines seem to be showing a sense of place rather than simply reflecting the winemakers’ preferences for reduction and/or ripeness.’
This would be academic were the wines not delicious, but happily there was much to enjoy here on a hedonistic level, too. Roger Jones noted: ‘It was good to see high marks from across the regions,’ and the fact that 40% of entries scored 90 points or above demonstrates that our high expectations were borne out.
The most reliably excellent region was Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, with wines that combined beguiling texture with a zesty energy and an ability to age. Jones observed that wines from here ‘need a bit longer to evolve, but when they do, they certainly develop well, balancing perfume, gunflint as well as delicate ripe stone fruit.’
Meanwhile, Margaret River in Western Australia showcased its trademark blend of density, complexity and freshness, which Pearce found ‘very impressive, effortless in its power and quality, particularly in the 2023 vintage.’
At their best, Tasmania’s steely tension and the Burgundy-esque poise of the Yarra Vallet in Victoria drew admiration from the panel, while the standout surprise was Geelong, another Victorian sub-region. Pearce praised its ‘confident balance’, and the entries from here showed that regardless of whether the wines are from a young or more mature vintage, Geelong offers a characteristic energy, grip and aromatic profile that combine to make these some of the country’s most thrilling expressions of the Chardonnay grape.
Panel Tasting – Alex Hunt MW, Roger Jones & Beth Pearce MW.
The Paringa Chardonnay 2019 – 95 POINTS
Lindsay McCall is one of Mornington Peninsula’s original pioneers, establishing Paringa Estate on a former orchard in 1985. The winery’s output gradually grew in volume and reputation while he kept his day job as a geogrpahy teacher, before he went full-time in 1996. From volcanic soil in the cool-climate Red Hill subregion, this Chardonnay was whole-bunched pressed to French oak barriques (a mixture of new, second-use and third-use) for fermentation and 11 months’ ageing, with monthly stirring.
AH Evolving in an interesting direction: lime cordial and toast, like a Semillon. Palate structure is broad but still bright. Could be a little divisive, like an old-school aged Burgundy. Exciting and intriguing.
RJ Toasty, aromatic nose with gentle perfume. Layers of texture and flavour. Pretty seamless, with a bright, clean saline finish. Beautiful.
BP Citrus, hazelnut and herbal edges with a hint of reduction. Generous, juicy. Baking spice notes well integrated. A sense that it will keep improving. Drink 2026-2036.
Estate Chardonnay 2024 – 94 POINTS
Bright citrus, apple and white nectarine. Rocky, savoury energy, generously pure fruit. Leesy richness; vibrant, clean palate. Lingering freshness. Drink 2026-2037.